Pierre Hermé, the “Picasso of Pastry”, on the Art of Macaroons
Nicknamed “The Picasso of Pastry” by Vogue magazine, Pierre Hermé (51), whose delicate cakes, chocolates and macaroons are often compared to works of art, has today become the most revered chef pâtissier in France. The heir to four generations of Alsatian bakery tradition, he started his career at the age of 14 as apprentice to legendary pastry master Gaston Lenôtre, before opening his first eponymous shop in 1996, followed by 13 other stand alone boutiques, including one in Belgravia. Combining flavours just as a master perfumer combines fragrances, his bold approach to macaroons -white truffle & hazelnut and chocolate & foie gras amongst others- has inspired a new legion of fans around the world (and a special mention in the American series Gossip Girls), and made the traditional biscuits trendy again. Here, he talks to Chic-Londres about the art of macaroons.
When did the macaroons first appear in the culinary scene? The macaroon as we know it today -two biscuits joined together with buttercream- was invented by the confectioner Camille Studer, who brought the recipe from his native Luxemburg to the Confiserie Sprungli in Zürich at the end of the 1950s, where they’ve since been sold under the name Luxemburgerli. Parisian pastry chefs such as Lenôtre took inspiration from this recipe to create their own modern macaroons, made with traditional flavours such as chocolate, vanilla, coffee and raspberries, with just a little bit of cream in between the biscuits. A