28 years after launching an eponymous label, the discreet but delightful Betty Jackson (59) continues to epitomise a certain brand of British chic, combining elegant tailoring, artistic prints and luxurious materials. After studying fashion in Birmingham with Zandra Rhodes and working as an illustrator, she became a designer in the 1970s for legendary Ossie Clarke. In 1981, she set up her own brand with her French husband, David Cohen, and received a CBE in 2007 for her services to fashion. Here, she talks about style and how being married to a Frenchman has not influenced her sense of fashion.
Why did you choose fashion as a career?
Because I went to Art school and I loved textiles, which are the reasons why it all started, although I had chosen at first to be an illustrator. But making clothes got a hold of me, almost as if I fell into it.
How would you define elegance?
Elegance for me means people who are at ease in their own looks and are sure of themselves: confidence is elegant, not conventional beauty.
Does being married to a Frenchman have influenced the way you perceive fashion?
Not at all, because I was already working as a designer when I met David, which was quite late in life.
How do you define British style and French style and do you think they are very different?
Yes, very, very different. British style is defined by its energy and courage, while French style has a real conformity about it. I will never forget when the French tried to embrace punk style and did it so everything they were wearing matched: there was something terribly chic and proper about it in total opposition with the English, who loved its clashing colours and irreverence.
How would you describe your own brand and would you say it is quintessentially British?
My style is first of all easy, simple, a bit crumpled and hopefully effortless! I don’t think it is classic British at all…..But I’m sure that as I live and work here, it must have an element of Britishness about it, even if it is subconscious.
Do you think that the way people dress does reflect their personality?
Yes, because you always choose the way you dress, even if you think that you don’t. You do make a decision about the way you look and present yourself to the world
How would you define your personal style?
It is casual, easy and relaxed. I always dress in black, except in summer, when I dress in navy blue. But really, this is just laziness on my part, so I don’t have to think too much!
What do you like and dislike the most about fashion?
I love its creative aspect: choosing colours, being inspired by fabrics and shaping them into a garment is so exciting. But I am a PR nightmare, as I hate publicity. I also hate the fact that fashion nowadays is so tied up with celebrity. I think it is ridiculous that you should need to see something on someone famous to decide to wear it.
Who are your style icons?
When we work on a collection, we always have in mind three or four great and intelligent women whom we admire, usually for their work and achievements rather than purely for their looks, and think about the kind of clothes they would want to wear. Sylvie Guillem is a good example of the kind of women we get inspired by.
Which fashion designers, past and present, do you admire most?
Chanel probably, as well as all those other early female designers, such as Madame Vionnet and Elsa Schiaparelli, who must have been so incredibly focused to achieve what they did in a male dominated environment. Today, I particularly like Danielle Scutt and Peter Jensen, who both have a style that rings very true. I also think Japanese designers are forever great, constantly brilliant and imaginative.
Do you have any fashion tips or advice?
When shopping, you have to take some time to choose well and go with a friend who will give you the truth. Personally, I try to wear a new silhouette every season: it doesn’t have to be a major change in style, but it is a way to move on.
Is there anything you would never wear?
Loads of things! My aim is to look anonymous: I like quiet clothes, not those that make a statement.
What are your main personal and professional achievements?
My two children who are absolutely fabulous and the fact that I have got a CBE: meeting the Queen when I received it was quite spectacular. I find her rather wonderful… And she has got the most beautiful skin!
Betty Jackson: 311 Brompton Road, SW3 (South Kensington
Betty Jackson in her Brook Green studio and two pieces from her Spring/Summer 2009 Collection
